There are so many gorgeous versions and terrific reviews of this pattern out there already. I probably don’t need to add anything further. But hey, since I’m here…
I bought this True Bias pattern ages ago but was waiting for summer to make itself felt before I made it up. I’m hoping the fact I’ve now made it won’t wreck the summer weather!
For PDF patterns, I’m most definitely a ‘send it to an online copy shop’ kind of woman (printyourpattern.com being my preferred one) rather than cutting and sticking the A4s together. Mostly this is to save time (so I can use it for actual sewing) but also because I am clearly just a bit rubbish at the sticking bit. No matter how carefully I cut and line up there are always bits that just won’t match up. Cue me getting frustrated and grumpy.
But this pattern is just 13 pages (if I remember correctly) so I felt I really could manage with this one! But again, perhaps just me, I really couldn’t get some bits to sit even close to having the size lines match up. I checked the test square, all was fine. But some pages had the completely wrong size lines butting together. Anyway, I did my best and re-blended several lines. I think I got it roughly right in the end! I should have spent more time on arts and crafts as a child.
I was in two minds (more like about four actually) as to what fabric from my stash would be the lucky winner for the wearable toile. The fabric I really wanted to use was a little heavier / less drapey than the pattern really calls for, but the other options seemed better suited (for various reasons) to other wearable toiles I have planned. So I decided to go for it with this lovely fabric:
It is a brushed cotton, medium weight and has a little drape but isn’t properly drapey.
For the pattern itself, I made a few changes.
Several reviews mention that it comes up large in the hips / sides, so I cut a size smaller than the chart measurements indicated. I then did an FBA to give me more space across the bust but also to create a bit more shaping. I definitely don’t suit boxy or unstructured styles, sadly. The dart helps a lot but I may rotate it into a french dart next time, to shape the sides more. I will probably take it in at the sides a touch as well.
I also lengthened the facing pieces by 3″ to cover the full extent of my bust and I widened the straps just a little (3/8″ in total) to give a better chance of covering the wider bra straps that tend to come with the size I wear (which helped but I will widen the straps by the same again next time).
Widening the straps meant I also had to widen the top of each shoulder piece on the front, back and facings so they would all still line up when sewn.
All of this meant I basically had to adjust every single pattern piece. Sigh. As I was doing this I mulled over the fact that this is why I tend to make several versions of patterns once I have adjusted them to fit me. I’m still pretty new at this pattern alteration stuff and it can take me a while to do all the alterations that I am learning I often need (FBA, sway back adjustment, forward shoulder adjustment, sometimes a wide rear adjustment…). I then want to make the time spent worth it and sew lots of versions of the pattern! It helps though that I really enjoy planning the looks and style I am after and coordinating them all, so everything all works together. Having multiple but different looking versions suits my style and sewing personality, I guess.
Anyway, leaving aside my random musings, once the pattern was all adjusted and ready, I had fun sewing this top. Even with all the stay stitching and understitching it is a fairly quick sew, but some nice touches to concentrate on like neatly attaching the shoulder straps.
(Worn here with my Ginger jeans and Bellatrix blazer)
I am very happy with the finished top. The fit across the neckline in particular is just as perfect as everyone says. My FBA had the effect of filling in more of the underarm area too and I didn’t redraw the curve as I suspected this would help to reduce any gaping / bra showing there (a fairly common occurrence for the busty amongst us). This seemed to work nicely, although I will adjust the pattern a little further to fill in some more space, as you can still see the side of my bra a bit. You can see a bit of the bra straps too and whilst I probably won’t be able to eradicate this completely, I will see if I can re-draft the strap area to cover them a bit more.
It is of course a little more stiff / thicker than ideal, as I knew it would be, but I love the colour and pattern on the fabric hugely. It looks nice tucked into jeans as above or loose over shorts (in fact this is what I am actually wearing as I type):
I’ll use the correctly drapey fabric for my next one though, as oh yes, there will be many more Ogdens whirring their way off my sewing machine 😁