Aglane? Langes?

Hmmm, unlike loads of clever bloggers, I seem to be struggling to find a way to name the Frankenstein pattern I’ve made!

It is a mix of the Agnes top from Tilly and the Buttons:

(photo from Tilly and the Buttons website)

with the newly released Lane dress from Seamwork:

(photo from Seamwork website)

Clearly I should have chosen different patterns so they would make a better, snazzier, blended name. Happily, the blending of the patterns themselves was a lot more successful!

I have been mulling over a design in my head for a while now. I wanted a short, fitted dress, with ties at the side that pull the dress in a little / create shape. But not a wrap dress, just with the ties sewn into the sides. I wanted it to have a scoop neck and short sleeves with a ruched / puffed detail. I had already decided that Agnes would be a great starting point for the sleeves and neck and had thought I would blend it with my knit skirt sloper for the skirt part. I had bought the fabric I wanted for it, a ponte Roma from Minerva Crafts in the colour ‘denim’. I really like it and felt it would be perfect for the sort of look I was after (link here if anyone is interested, not an affiliate one: Ponte Roma in denim colour)

And then, lo and behold, one of the patterns that Seamwork released for May is the Lane dress, a lovely looking style with princess seams and the perfect waist ties I had been dreaming of. It is a longer length than I wanted but that is easily fixed. But no sleeves. So I figured I could have a go at adding the Agnes sleeves. My rudimentary pattern drafting knowledge meant I was vaguely aware sleeveless bodices and sleeved bodices have a few drafting differences and that drafting sleeves is a bit technical. But I figured using the rouched version of Agnes would mean I could just gather more or less of the sleeve head to fit the armhole.

Through sheer luck, this turned out to be the case and I didn’t have any problems getting the sleeves in. And they look exactly as I’d wanted. Hooray!

However, when it was mostly constructed I tried it on and the dress itself didn’t look that great. It wasn’t shaped enough under my bust so it wasn’t very flattering and the waist ties consequently looked too high and bulky. Plus the length was still too long and made it look a tad frumpy. And the scoop neck wasn’t the right shape / size for me either.

I was disappointed but decided to hack away and see what I could do to improve it. I figured I had nothing to lose…

I cut off the neckband (and I don’t mean unpicked it, I just cut off the whole thing along with the bit of the bodice it was attached to). I then cut a bigger, more scooped neckline, measured that and cut a new neckband which was 15% shorter.

I took in more of the princess seams under the bust and I shortened the skirt length further.

And with these three changes I finally had pretty much the dress I had imagined and been trying to achieve.

It’s safe to say this won’t be my last one of this dress. I just have to work out what to call it…

#MeMadeMay2018 – part 1

Along with most (all?!) of the sewing world, I have been taking part in Me Made May.

This lovely challenge, brainchild of So Zo What Do You Know, has you choose and make your own personal pledge about how you will focus on wearing your me made wardrobe over the course of the month. You can pledge to wear all me mades, or just once a week, or week days / weekends only etc. Whatever is achievable but still a challenge.

What most people take out of it is a chance to review what they have made, what they actually wear, what wardrobe gaps need to be filled and so forth. I have been looking forward to taking part in this ever since I first heard about it when I started sewing last June.

My pledge was to wear at least one me made item per day and to make at least four more garments over the course of the month.

So how am I finding it so far?

Very interesting, is the short summary! I have already been focusing on wearing me mades a lot more recently anyway, as I feel so great wearing something I have dreamed up and then created myself.

But making sure I wear something me made every day is making me think even more about my wardrobe and how it fits together. I have also been trying to wear some of the items I made at the beginning, which I haven’t always worn very much. I want to see what I like / don’t like about them, what I know now about how I can improve the fit (both with my improving skills and also given the intervening 10kg weight loss). I have been assessing whether I like the item enough to try to alter it, or remake the pattern in a different size.

And it has all been really enjoyable. A contemplative, reflective process. I can also spot a couple of gaps that I would like to fill, like a navy short skirt to replace a RTW one that is a huge workhorse in my wardrobe but starting to look a bit old.

Here are the photos (rough and ready!) I have quickly snapped so far, to record exactly what me mades I have been wearing and what I’ve worn them with:

On the making front, I have also made the following so far:

(I’ve posted about the first one already and will add posts about the last two when I get a chance.)

The other interesting thing I’ve found is that the challenge has pushed me into addressing my ‘unfinished /unworn’ pile. Like finishing my Rosa shirt dress that has been sitting nearly finished (just needing the buttons and hemming) for months! I finally felt incentivised to do this and now really like the end result! I took it in at the sides a bit as it was too big in parts now. The bust is still a tad big but there is no way I am unpicking and redoing all those faux flat fell princess seams! 🤣

I also tried on the Bettine dress that I made and never wore as it was too tight. It now fits nicely and I was inspired to unpick and resew the lower side seams and hem in that area to adjust the way it hung, as it was a bit pinched from how I’d sewn it in my early sewing days. It is great to now have this as another dress to wear. And it turns out it goes perfectly with my new sandals. Bonus! It isn’t really the best / most flattering style on me I suppose, but for an easy, throw on dress for home working days etc, it will do nicely.

A trio of summer dresses

So all we need now is summer ☀️

In order of sewing (and hanging left to right):

  • Kew dress from Nina Lee
  • Joni dress from Stretch book by Tilly and the Buttons
  • Simplicity Amazing Fit 1800

The Kew dress is fantastic, a lovely fit in the bodice in the end. I did a FBA of an inch, but the darts are already pretty wide as drafted, so when I then did a dart to remove gaping at the underarm and rotated that into the existing bust dart it ended up huge. Like well over four inches huge. After a head scratching moment when the toile looked as pointy as I thought it might, I redrafted it for only 1/2″ FBA. I also split the rotated underarm dart between the waist dart and the bust dart.

And I’m really happy with the finished fit at the bodice.

The dress as a whole fits really nicely, in fact. A little snug round the waist but nothing the current diet won’t fix in another kilo or two!

The only thing I struggled with when sewing up this dress was the flappy bits (technical term) over the arms. I think I was just having a dense moment that day, but for the life of me I couldn’t see how to attach them so they went straight and flat across, rather than the twist you can see in these photos. I even took them off after basting and rebasted them. But I ended up with the same placement. The instructions and pictures aren’t super clear here (for me anyway, but see reference to dense moment above!), and you can’t entirely see how it is all going to come together when you have the pieces inside out and the facing still to attach. Basically I think it was me though, I’m sure others have worked it out fine!

So I gave up and just sewed them as they were. It’s a design decision of course. And now that I’ve looked at it all made up I think I can see how I should have done it. A duh moment.

Anyway, I will definitely be making this again so I’ll get it right next time!

The second dress is from Tilly’s new book. I’ve already made and love the Freya top with extended Polo neck. I wasn’t sure if the Joni would suit me given my bust, but decided what the hell. And I’m so glad I tried it as it is fab and really flattering. It was also really easy to sew up. I think the directions for the twisting could have been a soupçon clearer but it wasn’t too tricky.

As you can see, I went with one of the additional hack options from Tilly’s book, the self-drafted flutter sleeve, which I love.

The only thing I would say is that the circle mark at the neckline seems to be in the wrong place. The instructions have you clip to 15mm at the circle. But for most of the sizes the circle is much deeper into the fabric. So I had to decide whether to cut to the circle and fudge the rest of the seam allowance when sewing that area, or trim to 15mm not reaching the circle. It was hard to know what to do when trying to picture how it was all going to come together. I went with the latter option but this meant the neckline had an extra 15mm loose once it was turned and sewn, rather than the edges lining up neatly. I just hand-sewed these bits together and it looks fine, but it’s the first slightly unclear instruction I’ve found in any Tilly pattern. Unless I got it wrong, which is always a possibility!

The other thing is that the twisting seems a bit harder to do and still match up the centre seam for sewing when doing the bigger sizes, as there is more fabric in the way. Still manageable, you just have to tug and pull at it all to get it lined up.

Again, I will be making loads more Jonis!

And finally, the Amazing Fit dress. I wanted to try one of these as it has the separate bust pieces for A-DD cup sizes. These don’t translate to your actual cup size, rather it is the amount of difference between your high bust and your full bust measurements. Mine is 5″ difference which made me a DD Cup.

My version of the pattern only went up to the D cup option, so I went with that. I didn’t make any other changes as I wanted to see how the D cup fitted. And the answer is – pretty good, but I think the DD would have been better, or maybe I still need to lengthen the bodice a bit. I usually have to do this with bodice patterns / do an FBA which adds length, but I wasn’t sure if I would still need to given the multiple cup sizes. This pattern has more of an empire line, which doesn’t always suit me, but I sewed down the pleats for 1.5″ to make the waistline more fitted and I think this helped.

I wanted this dress as a more casual, throw on kind of option, which I think it will do well. It feels breezy, summery and casual, whilst still looking reasonably ‘put together’.

I did manage to add an element of drama though, with the overlocker eating the fabric! I was trying to play with the tension and wasn’t paying as much attention as I should have. I realised with horror I had cut into the fabric itself, just by the side seam at the back. I rescued it, more or less, by ironing on some interfacing behind the cut, adding some Seam Fray and sewing around the hole to reinforce things. Fortunately the floral pattern helps to hide it too. What an idiot though! I won’t be doing that again <she says optimistically>

Ah well, it had to happen at some point and at least it isn’t too obvious!

I’m really pleased with all three dresses, hopefully they will all be useful additions that get lots of wear over the summer.

Crikey, I’ve actually made jeans!

Proper jeans, with rivets and coin pockets and miles of top stitching. And they fit! All very miraculous.

It is of course the Ginger Jeans pattern from Closet Case. I chose these as a) I love the look of the high rise option, b) I have read so many blog posts and reviews about them and everyone, without exception, enthuses about the pattern, and c) Heather Lou (of Closet Case) has a huge amount of help on her website for making them, including blog posts, a comprehensive photographic fitting guide, a sewalong and an online course you can buy. The latter of which I did, and can highly recommend. I also bought the jeans hardware kit that Closet Case sells, so that I would know I was using the right bits and pieces.

After my last trouser making foray (see my last post) I felt I had learnt enough to try making proper jeans. I was having a ‘how hard can it be?!’ moment, it appears.

And fortunately, it all worked out more or less ok.

The cutting out process was a bit painful, as it is recommended you cut out in a single layer to stop the legs twisting. The only flat space I had that was almost big enough was in our upper hallway landing, which only just fit the fabric and me. I had to scamper my way round holding onto door frames to avoid stepping on the fabric! And had very sore knees by the end! It took three hours in total to cut everything out and do the interfacing. I’m hoping it will be a bit quicker next time.

The next step was working out the machine tension for the top stitching.

Everything I had read indicated that getting your machine to work properly with the thicker topstitching thread is one of the trickier bits of making jeans. As you can see, the problem my machine had was with the bobbin tension. I ended up with the tension at 8 and the stitch length at 3. It wasn’t perfect from the underneath bobbin side of the stitching, but it was ok and looked good from the top.

My machine did struggle a bit with the top stitching on the parts with seriously multiple layers of denim, and it didn’t like backstitching with it. But with some full on cranking of the handwheel when things got stuck, and the odd occasion of cutting away stuck threads from within the bobbin case, I (and the fabric!) made it through fairly unscathed.

My first bits of top stitching:

Constructing the front involves all the multiple pocket pieces and facings, getting them in the right order, position and the right way up, clipping, turning and toptstitching. All lots of fun and very satisfying when it all lines up. Even if some of the time I really couldn’t envisage how it was all going to come together. And I did manage to sew the coin pocket on the left side rather than the right. Hey ho, I’m calling it one of my personalisation details 😄.

The only thing that really went a little wrong with these jeans was the fly front. Probably not that surprising! I very nearly got it right, but think I positioned the zip just a little too far over. It meant I had very little space to get in the two lines of top stitching, and the thread was very close to the zip teeth when I did the second row. In fact I found I could barely unzip the fly, which would make the jeans a tad pointless! So I unpicked the second, inner topstitching and decided I would just have to live with only having one row.

But I really wasn’t happy with how that looked. And later on when trying them on as a basted trial run, I found I had a strange hole at the bottom on the zip front area where the bottom of the zip hadn’t been caught properly in the stitching, which was just too low. I slept on it and the next day I unpicked the bar tack (which had actually gone in quite well!) and the bottom bit of the topstitching around the fly front. I re-sewed it in about an inch higher. It makes the curve of the stitching line a bit square, but it fixed the hole problem and I also found I could sneak a second line of stitching in. Yay! This area has turned out to be the worst bit of the topstitching I did on the jeans, but actually I’m ok with it. It’s not horribly wobbly and probably no one else is staring at my crotch, as Heather Lou would say. Plus, hell, I made jeans!!

So, a few other notes:

  • I sewed the back pockets on whilst the back legs were still separate. Heather Lou recommends doing a pocket fitting later in the process to see what position suits you best, but I wanted to sew them on whilst the pieces were flat, to make it easier for my first pair. I positioned them up very slightly, so the second row of topstitching was in line with the tailor tacks (yes, surprising even myself, I am starting to use tailor tacks fairly often!). When trying on the basted pair I realised the back pockets sat out too wide. More or less ending at the very side of my behind / hips. Not really the look I was after – making my behind look wider! I couldn’t bear the thought of unpicking all that topstitching and redoing them so I came up with another solution. When sewing the jeans together properly, I used a 20mm seam allowance along the back crotch seam and a 12mm allowance on the side seams adjacent to the pockets. This brought the pockets into the centre a little more but gave me the same circumference.
  • I also blended the two views of the pattern together at the cutting stage, so I had the high rise waist with the stovepipe legs. At the basting stage I decided to slim the legs down a bit more. I still kept the straight leg but from the top of my thigh down I used a 20mm seam allowance on both the inseam and the outer seam

Anyway, more photos:

The buttonhole went in well, hallelujah. I had done a test run on an interfaced scrap of the denim but was still very nervous of ruining my almost finished jeans. Installing the button and the rivets is great fun. You can see my high tech rivet-installing kit in the photos above!

I took about 3 or 4 cm off the final length of the jeans to get them the perfect length. I compared their inseam to the ones on a couple of RTW pairs of jeans and worked out where I wanted them to end. They then hemmed up like a dream and ta dah! Jeans!

And another one of my #makenine ticked off.

I am so thrilled with these jeans. Yes they are not perfect (the zip doesn’t like pulling up past the pocket stay when they are on, but luckily I can get them on with the zip done up to just past that section) but I made them. And I really wouldn’t have believed I could do that, even a few months ago.

So of course, having finished them, the weather in the UK immediately turned unbelievably lovely with temperatures in the mid 20s. In April. Yes, that same April where it snowed on the 1st of it. Hence I haven’t been able to wear my happy-making jeans yet. But I’ve just started working on two summer dresses, so it’s bound to turn cold and rainy again next week…

Trousers!

So I have taken the plunge and made trousers.

From the various blogs and books I’ve read, the challenge in making trousers isn’t really with the sewing of them (save for mastering a fly insertion, potentially complicated pockets and dealing with top stitching, depending on the style) but in the fitting issues they bring. All sorts of new terminology arises, like crotch depth and length, smile lines, frown lines, scooping the crotch… Quite a lot about crotches really.

As I understand it, you can have problems trying to work out what is causing the fit problems, as it may actually be something unrelated to what you think is causing the issue.

So I decided that my first pair of trousers would be the new Sew Over It Ultimate Culottes. My thought process for this ran along the following lines:

  • Culottes seem to be the latest on trend thing in the sewing world and whilst I’m not too worried about being particularly on trend, you do get inspired when you see people’s versions of culottes starting to pop up on Pinterest etc, plus pattern designers start coming out with their own take on the look, increasing the chances of finding a version I think will look right on my shape and height;
  • Culottes should be great for summer, being breezy, non rub-inducing in the (hopefully) hot sweaty weather – basically a great blend of skirt and shorts; and
  • As they are not a skinny fitting trouser all down the leg, there should (also hopefully!) be slightly fewer fitting issues to grapple with.

I did a shorts length version muslin, to see if I could spot anything that needed changing in the pattern, before I cut out my wearable toile version. I also removed about 7 inches in length from the pattern itself as I knew I wanted them to be around knee length. The pattern seemed pretty long as drafted and would have put them near my ankles!

The muslin showed I needed to take a wedge out of the front crotch, which I did with a dart to check it looked about right. It seemed to and hence I sallied forth.

The sewing process all went pretty well. I machine sewed the waistband lining into place rather than hand sewing it, and it looks very nice. Probably a little less polished on the inside, but still pretty clean.

The only real problem I had with the pattern instructions was with the belt loops. I pressed the seams of the loops to roll them to the back slightly, so the seam would be hidden. The instructions said to pin and stitch them right sides together. As I hadn’t really envisaged how it would all look when turned the right way round, I only realised after sewing it all up that of course my loop seams were now all clearly showing from the right side. Sigh.

I unpicked the waistband at each of the five loops, took them out, repositioned them and sewed it all up again.

Much better!

Unfortunately, at this stage when I tried the culottes on it became apparent that my shortening of the crotch wasn’t enough. They sat far too low and felt uncomfortable with the seam rubbing. I didn’t know what to do as I couldn’t fix it by scooping out the crotch or taking in side seams etc. The area simply needed more fabric so the seam sat higher. A bit hard to do that retrospectively!

I didn’t know whether just to try to wear them as is, ditch( i.e. give them to a charity shop) as a pure learning exercise, or find some other way to improve the fit. After sleeping on it I thought it might work if I took off the waistband and removed an inch or so from the top of the trousers, then sewed the waistband back on so that the crotch would sit higher.

I think it is a sign of my slowly increasing confidence with this whole sewing business that I decided to go with option c. Even after I realised this would also involve taking out and moving the invisible zip! Oh yes, and increasing each of the dart intakes so the measurements for the top of the trousers would match the waistband.

I tried it out roughly on the original muslin first, to check it would do as I needed.

Excuse the dodgy photos! The joys of sewing in my gym gear.

Anyway, it felt like it might work and I figured I had nothing to lose, so I pressed on.

This is how much I cut off in the end. And they now fit much better, hooray! I also shortened the length even further as I very rarely suit things at mid calf length and these were still too long, even after shortening the pattern at the start.

So, here they are, styled a bit tongue in cheek with a nod to their 70s vibe.

After all that, I’m not 100% they really suit me though! I think the proportions may make my bottom look a bit long and my torso a bit short. But I will try them on with a few other tops and see how they look. I’m sure I’ll wear them anyway, as a useful sort of thing to throw on for every day stuff. Made in this chambray viscose material, they should certainly go with loads of colours.

All in all I’m pretty happy with how my first trouser making experience went. And so onto the second pair…

Three jersey tops and a mini skirt

(Oh dear, that sounds a bit like one of Richard Curtis’s less successful film titles. Ah well!)

At the moment I have a lots of projects lined up in my ‘to make’ queue and I’ve been mulling over what I should start on next. Should I tackle one of the tricky trousers or jeans projects? Or start on the wearable toile of the Kew dress by Nina Lee that I can’t wait to try? Or be a bit more practical and sew up some more basics that I can add to my everyday wardrobe?

I decided to put off a) for just a little longer and to wait for the weather to improve before starting b) (the snow that appeared at the weekend vindicated that decision!). Which left c).

I bought some lovely deep blue – grey marl jersey from Girl Charlee at the Knitting & Stitching Show the other week, so decided I would whip up another Agnes top, given how much I love wearing my blue striped one.

The joy of this pattern + that I have made a few of these and other jersey tops meant it took me less than two hours from start to finish, including cutting out. A very satisfying, quick sew.

Feeling on a roll, I decided to crack on with the next version of the Astoria sweater I had planned, using the gorgeous grey Atelier Brunette sweatshirt material I had bought for it.

I graded down the side seams and shoulders a touch, to account for me being a bit smaller since making the last one. And then with a deep breath I cut into the meltingly soft material. And again, hurrah, it sewed up very easily in under two hours. I did the same 2.5 inch lengthening and dartless FBA (full bust adjustment) that I made to the last version and with these I love the feel and fit of this top. I have worn it twice since making it already – a definite wardrobe staple.

Ooh, pretty spots 😄

At this point I thought hey, let’s just keep going! I had pre-ordered the new Tilly and the Buttons ‘Stretch’ book as soon as I heard about it and when it arrived last week I devoured it cover to cover in one sitting. Since then I have had ideas buzzing around my head as to what patterns I would make from the book. I thought the Freya top (with the extended polo neck) would be a fantastic pattern to use with some navy merino jersey I have from The Fabric Store (in NZ). Something snugly and warm for winter, which clearly has no plans to go anywhere.

I wanted to check the fit first before using the merino jersey though, so I used a bit of fabric from a larger piece of blue / sea green jersey that I bought from Minerva Crafts a while back. I should check how much I actually used as there is still loads left. I’m pretty sure the top took a little less than the fabric requirements given for the pattern.

Even with tracing and grading the pattern between the sizes I needed, it was still around two hours to make this. Not, I hasten to add, because of any particular sewing skills on my part, but because Tilly’s patterns and instructions are awesome and the construction is similar to the Agnes top, so I was on familiar ground.

This was meant to be a wearable toile (I’m such a fan of those!) but it fits beautifully and I completely love it! The colour and weight / feel of this jersey works surprisingly well with this pattern, considering it was just a random bit from my stash. I will definitely be making more tops using this pattern – and am now musing what else I can make with the rest of this fabric!

Happily, it also looks nice with the necklace that was part of the prompt for considering making a polo top in the first place. Trinny and Susannah probably wouldn’t approve though.

Seeing as these tops came together so quickly, I realised I might be able to squeeze one more make into this surprisingly productive week. Now that I have my new revised skirt sloper to play around with, I thought I would make another easy pegged mini (ish) skirt from a very cheap piece of fabric I bought on impulse from Minerva Crafts a while back. I’m not sure I could pull this design off with other sorts of patterns (shiny velour animal print might be a tad Bet Lynch!) but I thought it would work on me as a simple skirt.

With no vent and only a simple overlocked stretch lining, this skirt is pretty quick to make too. However, I have clearly mucked up when measuring my waistband sloper piece, as somehow it seems to be half an inch smaller than the top of the skirt. Which of course I only realised when I came to sew it to the already cut and constructed skirt pieces. I had the choice of recutting another waistband and interfacing or cutting the centre back pieces of the skirt down by the half inch. I went for the latter option and hoped the skirt wouldn’t end up too tight! Diet incentive if so…

I doubt I’ll have such a productive week again for a while, but I’m pretty chuffed to have four more things to add to my ‘me made’ wardrobe – and such practical, easy-wearing ones as these too.

A faux suede skirt

Fresh on the heels of making my new skirt sloper, I decided to make a shortish fitted skirt from a stunning piece of navy faux suede that I bought a while ago. I knew it would be a bit of a tricky fabric to sew with, so I had put it to the side till I felt a little more ready.

In a burst of confidence, I decided to charge on it.

Being a sensible person (😄) I did a LOT of test stitching on fabric scraps to work out the best needle / tension / stitch combo. Which was a good thing as indeed this fabric was tricky. I had skipped stitches all over the place. Never have I done so much test stitching!

I tried a leather needle, thinking suede would be similar in requirements. Nope. The perfect combo ended up being a heavy jersey needle (16/100) as it is actually a stretch faux suede, with a tension all the up to the max of 9 and a stitch length of 3. I then crossed my fingers for every dart and seam sewed for no skipped stitches!

Happily there was only one seam where a few stitches skipped and it was easy to resew that bit.

As the first skirt I made with this new sloper felt a tiny bit snug, I added a little extra to the seams of this skirt when cutting it out. I should have trusted myself / my measurements as I ended up having to cut it back out again plus a bit more! The stretch no doubt helped here too.

So, photo time.

I used my quilters clips instead of pins so as not to leave holes. I also didn’t think fusible interfacing would bond to the suede surface so I used silk organza instead as a sew in interfacing. It worked well although at first the waistband made a slight scrunchy sound when I moved! It seems to have softened in now though. I also lined the skirt with some stretch lining from Minerva Crafts.

I’m thrilled with the finished skirt. It fits really nicely and the faux suede gives it a lovely look and feel, just something a bit more special and elevated than the skirt would otherwise be.

My ‘proper’ Coppelia, at last – a.k.a my kiwi make

So when I first saw + loved + purchased the Coppelia pattern from NZ company Papercut Patterns, I knew I wanted to make it in a beautiful merino jersey from the Fabric Store, also in NZ.

But as you would expect, merino jersey is not cheap, so I wanted to make a few versions in cheaper cotton jersey first to get the fit and sewing techniques spot on before cutting into my precious merino jersey.

Having made three Coppelias now, albeit one a slight failure(!), I felt ready to go for it. The only question being which of my stunning merino fabric colours to use. I decided that I would use the pale grey as I really wanted a top in this colour as part of my planned wardrobe. Plus I’ve decided to use the navy for a polo neck / skivvy from the new Tilly and the Buttons book. More on that in another post!

So the big moment of cutting. Eek.

In fact, it all went pretty smoothly, which was a nice change after my botched efforts on the previous navy version!

I have finally worked out exactly how to do the neckband sewing so that it is pulled tight enough to give a snug non-gapey fit around the neck and bust but not so tight that it distorts and twists at the point that it needs to sew flat into the waist band / ties.

My trick was to pull it tight as sewing it all the way round save for the last 10cm before hitting each bottom end. At that 10cm mark I just eased of and barely pulled the neck band at all. I then left the extra hanging tail bit there right until the last possible stage of construction, rather than trimming it off as soon as I finished sewing it on. The photos show this all a bit more.

And as if by magic, I ended up with a nicely finished neckband meeting waistband.

The finished cardigan looks lovely and I am really happy with it.

I somehow managed to cut the cuffs with the stretch going in the wrong direction, so they are very fitted. But I actually realised what I’d done before sewing them on and could have re-cut some more, but I like the look of super fitted cuffs so decided to press on and sew them as cut. Fortunately I’m pleased with that decision!

So all in all, a really successful make. The only very tiny negative is that even with the grading that I did of the seam allowances, it is a slight bit bulkier around the waistband than I would prefer in an ideal world, but nothing too problematic. It has made me realise though that it would be even more bulky if I made this pattern up in the pale pink Atelier Brunette sweatshirt fabric that I have, which was my next plan. I guess I will just have to find something else to make with that beautiful fabric!

My first jacket part 2

Right, the page kept crashing when trying to finish off my jacket post, so after multiple attempts, I gave up and will finish it off in this separate post! I think it was the number of photos in the last post that did it…

So anyway, here are the photos of the final stage of the jacket construction:

The bagging method for the lining looks like one big hot mess whilst you are in the middle of it and you just have to cross your fingers and hope it all comes out correctly. As quite frankly at this point you are pretty sure it is going to be a bit of a disaster.

But as if by magic (and I did show it to the girls and Ben billed as a magic trick – I think I may have over sold it as they wondered where the rabbit was) you end up with a jacket. That actually looks like a jacket.

And fits like a jacket.

I am beyond chuffed with the fact that I made this. It isn’t perfect but it is a huge amount better than I thought my first jacket would be! I have plans to make this a couple more time in some different types of fabric and then when I really feel I have nailed the fit and construction, I plan to treat myself by buying a piece of beautiful Linton tweed, which is the company from the north of England that makes the tweed for Chanel…

Perhaps a little something like this?…

And on that note, à bientôt.

My first jacket

I have quite a few jackets and coats lined up in my pattern stash / ‘to make’ queue. I’ve been watching various online courses on Craftsy about tailoring jackets and all the techniques involved, as well as reading up on tips from various sewing blogs. I also bought this book:

So I thought it was about time I dived on in! It is also one of the patterns on my make nine list, so it will be a doubly satisfying tick when I finish this.

I am starting with the simplest of my jacket patterns though, with no collar, no closures, three quarter sleeves with no plackets and a cropped length. It is the jacket that comes as part of pattern New Look 6390.

It has the slight feel of a Chanel style French jacket but with more shaping via princess seams, which will be better for me than the boxier shape.

The pattern is for a lined jacket but not including the sleeves. I want the whole thing lined so will add a sleeve lining as well.

I also want to bag the lining as this is a technique I want to learn. From reading up on it, you need to have a neck facing to be able to bag the lining, which this pattern doesn’t actually have. I therefore redrafted the back piece to create the neck facing, which I think will give it a better finish and more structure anyway.

Plus I added in a 1 inch pleat to the centre of the back lining, which is the advice for the best linings, giving more movement and wearing space.

I also did a two inch FBA (so 4 inch in total) as this pattern doesn’t go up to my size so I needed to increase that. Plus I usually need to do one anyway!

The main fabric I’m using is a cheap poly jacquard, £5 for the metre of fabric I need for this jacket. It is a darker navy than I wanted but at £5 a metre I’m not complaining!

And I did actually make up a muslin first! Yay me! I really want to nail the fit of this jacket as I think / hope it will be a really good shape for me and one I can make up in different sorts of fabric to get completely different looks.

As you can see from the pen, I did make a fair few adjustments. The pattern size I cut was basically too big, which was a nice surprise! I had to reduce the FBA down a bit and remove some from the side seams. The shoulders are also sitting out a little wide but I think a small shoulder pad will sort that out and again shoulder pads are something I want to learn how to insert.

It looked much better after those adjustments. I think the sleeves may need some alterations too but I decided to press on with making the wearable toile, where I should be able to see the required changes more easily.

So on to the cutting out. I’m using a lovely dusky lilac for the lining.

There is a lot of pressing involved in jacket tailoring! My trusty ham and seam roll (sounds a bit like the girls’ lunch…) are being well used.

I tried the garment on as it was coming together, to check the fit. Turns out it was still too big and not the fitted look I was after. So I made more adjustments by pinning the jacket.

Basically, the princess seam didn’t sit in the right place. I would need to move that seam across including removing some fabric from the seam where the centre front meets the side front and also removing about a further inch from both sides. I also would need to move the front opening edges in by around an inch.

Having worked out what changes were needed and pinned / marked them on the fabric with chalk, I then unpicked the seams involved and worked out how to to recut the relevant bits (a bit tricky on the princess seams!). Then I transferred the adjusted marks to the pattern itself so it is ready for the next one.

It looked much better after this last round of adjustments.

I then trimmed the unsewn facing and lining pieces the same way – much easier doing these whilst still flat!

And so onto constructing the rest of the jacket.

A few glitches, like forgetting about the allowance for the pleat I had added to the back lining and just sewing it in flat to the facing. Whoops. I contemplated unpicking it all but I didn’t think the lining would stand up to that very well so I recut more back lining and neck facing pieces and resewed them. Correctly this time.

I also have a sneaking suspicion I may have sewn the main fabric sleeves on backwards. Ie the back of the sleeve is facing the front. It isn’t obvious and I’m not completely sure that’s what I’ve done. Basically I mistakenly cut an extra notch in the front of the sleeve when cutting out so it ended up with a double notch the same as the back of the sleeve. Hence two double notches instead of one single and one double! As there was a couple of days gap between the cutting and sewing of this I forgot about the notch issue and only remembered after the first sleeve was sewn in.

Anyway, it isn’t too obvious and lesson learnt!

So it has all come together well so far (above issues aside!).

I’m not sure whether to use the shoulder pads or not. I may leave them out this time as the jacket isn’t designed for them and I don’t want to inadvertently make the armsythes too high / tight. I will wear this one around for a bit to get a proper feel of it and then decide what to do on version 2.

And now for the biggie! The final step of attaching the lining to the main jacket, by bagging it.

I am still slightly unclear on how much shorter I should cut the lining so that when attached it acts to pull the main fabric up and under, hiding the lining. I think 5/8ths of an inch is the right amount, but we shall see!

I’ve also adjusted the sleeve hem lining to remove the hem allowance of 1 1/4 inches and then add on the 5/8ths seam allowance. Again, I’m hoping this is right because of course none of this is covered by the pattern instructions. Winging it, is the phrase…

A bit of a fail

So, my ‘buttons instead of ties’ hack of the Coppelia did not exactly go well.

It all started swimmingly, and was sewing up very nicely. I extended the waistband pieces by one inch each to give more room for the burrito. This definitely helped although was still a bit tricky and fiddly.

But the problems started where the neckline meets the waistband.

Problem 1. In my measuring for adjusting the waistband length for the button hack, I forgot to account for the fact that the neckband edges go inside the waistband. So the waistband measurement needs to include the neckband short edge width. Which I hadn’t done.

The ends therefore didn’t get sewn up in the waistband. I had to bodge them (again) which left them very bulky and a bit rubbish looking.

Never mind, I thought, at least one of them is hidden when it is done up. And the other will be a bit masked by the outer button.

But it really did look terrible.

Long story short, I cut off my beautifully applied burrito waistband, cut new waistband pieces and start again.

And then resewed the waistband using the instructions from the pattern rather than a burrito. My machine isn’t so keen on top stitching this sort of fabric but I did a better job than on my first Coppelia.

So, smooth sailing now you think? Sadly, no.

Problem 2. Because of the way you pull the neck band tightly to sew it on, which creates the hugging / snug fit to the body hence no gaping, it ends up distorting and pulling the material at the waist band connection point. I have FINALLY worked out how this is best to handle and where to trim the ends off. But unfortunately the lightbulb moment happened AFTER I had already trimmed the neckband too short.

So yet more bodging of the corners was required. I was losing my sense of humour a little at this point.

And then I discovered that the botched, bulky corners wouldn’t fit under the machine to be able to add the button holes. Sigh. With jersey not fraying, I just cut out some of the inside layers. It really wasn’t going well! This make became a testament to my sheer bloody mindedness – and determination to have a navy top!

And so onto the next problem. Yes, there is yet another one. (I have lost count of what number we are up to at this point)

I had interfaced the waistband in anticipation of needing the extra structure to be able to add button holes to jersey. But with my cutting and replacing the waistband I lost that bit. I’m not sure what difference it would have made anyway, but certainly as the top stood, my machine just wouldn’t sew a buttonhole. The buttonhole foot just jammed on the material and sewed madly in the same place or if I pulled it taut to help move it along the fabric stretched out so the buttonhole was crazy long and not the right size. Nor would it turn at the top to complete the second side of the button hole either.

Here is the practice run I did on some scraps. Oh yes, I tried stabilizing with silk organza squares. Didn’t work.

Double sigh. So I just cut a button hole straight through the fabric at the corner, then hand sewed round the edges and sewed on the buttons.

Finished, you think? Technically yes. But between cutting off the neckband, the corner bodging, the buttonhole dramas, and possibly just that the top needs the ties to pull it tight, the top was just too big around the waist. It hung and flapped, not at all how I wanted it. You can kind of see it in these photos but trust me, it was far more obvious in real life.

I finally had to accept that this top just wasn’t going to happen. Pretty disappointing. But all a good learning curve I suppose! And as a silver lining at least I didn’t do this on my beautiful merino fabric!

I worked out a way to sort of salvage it, by tying the two side pieces together in the middle, trimming and stitching them and effectively turning it into a very cropped, pull on, bolero type top to go over a dress or vest top. Not sure how much use it will get, but at least I ended up with something after all that struggle!

Hmmm, do you know, I think I actually quite like it…

Make Nine

I have seen this sewing blogger event mentioned on lots of blogs since I have started sewing (along with Me Made May, which I fully intend on diving into in May!). And now that a new year is underway, I’ve put together my own Make Nine.

In fact, I’ve actually planned a lot more than nine. But more on that in another post!

For now, I’ve managed to narrow it down to the top nine that reflect the items I want to be able to make by end of this year, as well as being part of my wardrobe coordination plan.

I could have done Make 20 I think, but here is my funky little grid of pleasurable anticipation and planning, aka Make Nine:

  • Top row L to R – Sew Over It Ultimate Trousers (I am going to attend the workshop for these in Clapham); True Bias Ogden Cami; Sewaholic Thurlow shorts
  • Middle row L to R – Papercut Patterns Coppelia cropped cardy; Papercut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer: New Look 6344
  • Bottom row L to R – New Look 6390 (the cropped jacket and view C); By Hand London Rumana coat; Closet Case Patterns Ginger jeans

The Rumana coat will be the last make I’m sure, both due to it’s complexity and high skill level, but also as I won’t have the skills to make it for the present winter, so it will then need to wait till nearer next winter.

Once I have done the Ultimate Trousers course in Clapham, I then plan to tackle the Ginger jeans and Thurlow shorts. The summery tops will also be in a couple of months, so that they will be the right size for me at the point in the year I will actually be wearing them.

The Coppelia I have already made a wearable toile for, with a second one already cut and partly made. So I guess I could technically claim I’ve already ticked off one make! I’ll wait till I do the proper one for that though. But I do feel like I am underway anyway!

That leaves two patterns for the choice of what to tackle next after the Coppelia – the New Look 6390 or the Bellatrix. The New Look cropped jacket looks to be a simpler construction so I will start with that and hopefully it will teach me a few things that will be useful for the Bellatrix after that.

I have some cheap, dark (very dark, it transpires) navy poly jacquard ready for the toile of the New Look cropped jacket, so I may even get a chance to start that next week. Or possibly this week. Mind you, it is half term so clearly I would be mad to think I can get much sewing done this week…

My sewing records

3756EC36-09E1-4AD0-9315-1BCE41D8195E

I am starting this blog as a private online journal sort of thing, to keep a record of what I sew.

I started sewing in June 2017 and have made about 30 garments (I think!) since then. I have fallen in love with sewing completely and take so much pleasure and satisfaction in seeing how much more I can do now than when I started.  I love wearing my ‘me made’ clothes!  And I want to keep learning and improving 👗👙👖👚

I am going to add photos of all the things I have made so far and then keep adding as I make each new item.

This is photo is the first thing I made, a scarf, from the first Tilly and the Buttons online beginner class I took. I finished it on 13 June 2017.  Whilst I don’t wear it much, as the stiffer / structured 60s head scarf style of it isn’t really my sort of look, it is the first thing I made and hence still special.